The Polynesians began the sacred ritualistic sport here more than 500 years ago. It helps if you have friends who surf or an instructor who can lead you in the right direction for your skill level, but if you don't, you can read this easy guide on finding the right board.
A surf instructor will be able to offer professional surfing advice and guidance along with the added safety of being emergency medical trained. Surfing while drunk is not a good idea. Even experienced surfers will sometimes be caught off guard when the sets pop up a little early then expected.
The movies opened up the genre of the surf movie and the art of surfing to non surfing people, accumulating fans and inspiring neophytes. Most surfing lessons and surfing instructors can provide you with training surfboards, but when you decide to get serious, definitely buy yourself a nice one. Before you hit the water, draw an outline of a surfboard on the sand, and lay on it.
Be sure to get wax for your water temperature, as otherwise the wax can melt off or become slippery. Please, know your limits.
