Most of the older guys you see in the water these days did not have the benefit of surf schools when they where learning. Duke Kahanamoku, an Olympic star in swimming, popularized the sport further by traveling internationally and showing off his surfing style to thrilled audiences around the world.
That would be horrible to have to carry a piece of wood down the beach until you got to your spot and then you jump in the water and the water just water logs the wood surfboard that is the main reason why I can see why people changed the surfboard. Obviously, if you have a longboard it will be much taller than you, but the six inch rule is a standard. While there is definitely a lot more to surfing, these are two things to master.
This is when the real work begins, paddling. When dropping in on a wave while surfing, always remember that where your head goes, your body follows. Make sure you are a strong enough paddler and are physically fit enough to surf.
You will need to do this many times before you get it. Generally the better the surfer the smaller their board in length, width and thickness.
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