You just get out past the break and you sit on your board until you see a wave coming and then when you start to see waves coming you just get ready to start paddling and then you try and throw yourself into the wave and try to stand up. Surfing is popular largely because it requires no formal training, a minimum of equipment and can be enjoyed by almost anyone at any age.
Other famous world class Hawaii surf spots are kammies, backdoor, rocky point, laniakea, jockos and haleiwa just to name a few. This site/blog focuses on stand-up surfing, not body boarding. Look for schools with accredited coaches.
The movies opened up the genre of the surf movie and the art of surfing to non surfing people, accumulating fans and inspiring neophytes. They are light and form fitting for comfort so they don t get in the way of a surfer s performance. I also recommend a leg-rope, because sooner or later your going to need one, and you don't want to be chasing your board around all the time when you could be catching more waves.
The general rule is, the surfer closest to the breaking part of the wave has control of the wave. So get yourself an instructor, suit up, grab a board and hit the beach!
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