Today, Hawaii is home to most of the Big Wave surfing and some of the most coveted breaks exist in this island paradise. A few surfing lessons can have just about any water bug hurling down the waves in no time flat, and finding out through first hand experience what all the fuss is about.
Sometimes our egos can get in the way, because we may think we're actually better surfers than our performance on the waves clearly shows. Remember the more flotation, the easier it will be to stand up but it will be harder to push through the waves and get out the back. The wind blows over a huge area and then the water rises forming waves and swells that are sent all over whichever the wind blows that is where the swells are headed.
For the intermediate or expert skill level surfers out there, the choice is yours for the type of surfboard you want to use, and it will depend on the type of surfing you want to do. Stretch your neck, put your chin near the deck of your surfboard, and hurl your every thought and inspiration down the face of the wave as you paddle. The sun is much stronger when out surfing as it not only hits you from above, but also reflects off the water.
You don't want to endanger others, so learn the rules and have fun. Once you are confident and can catch waves easily, you can attempt to stand up on your board.
No comments:
Post a Comment