Like most sports, the best way to learn to surf is to do it. The North Shore on the island of Oahu has gigantic winter waves and is commonly referred to as wild water.
Softboards are ideal for surfing newbies because they provide the best buoyancy and stability for beginners learning how to surf. Remember the more flotation, the easier it will be to stand up but it will be harder to push through the waves and get out the back.
And that's the whole point, right? Obviously, if you have a longboard it will be much taller than you, but the six inch rule is a standard. The deeper you can get under the wave, the safer you will be from the force of the breaking wave.
There are midsize boards, often called funboards, which will give you the best of both worlds. They are light and form fitting for comfort so they don t get in the way of a surfer s performance. Shortboards and fun boards were designed with the average surfer in mind, and are definitely a design specifically for East Coast conditions.
You should always learn to read the water before you even start surfing. You can learn to stand on a board and catch a small wave in a day, or work on form, style and ocean awareness with surfing legends over the space of several days to a week or more.
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