You just get out past the break and you sit on your board until you see a wave coming and then when you start to see waves coming you just get ready to start paddling and then you try and throw yourself into the wave and try to stand up. There are a myriad of factors which will influence your choice of board.
After you candidly rate your skill level, you can start narrowing down the type of board that will work with your skill level and help bring you to the next level. One of the best ways to jump into surfing and get your feet wet is to sign up at a local surfing school close to where you live. Practicing yoga and learning to focus and balance will not only help you master the mindset side of surfing but will also help to avoid injury and increase flexibility.
The sign of a good surfer is that he can catch the waves before it breaks and before all the other surfers can. Without the ability to paddle you will not only never catch a wave, but more than likely never even get to the line up. So many times I have seen a beginner surfer spend a stack of coin on all the latest gear and then spend an hour getting thrown around in the white water, wondering how everyone else made it out the back, it is 90% in your paddling ability. It also gives you time to check for any rips or where the best spot to catch waves is.
Good surfing instruction really does make a world of difference. If you are about to wipe-out then get rid of your board.
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