Most of the older guys you see in the water these days did not have the benefit of surf schools when they where learning. You may be fired up and ready to surf, but don t jump the gun.
Sometimes our egos can get in the way, because we may think we're actually better surfers than our performance on the waves clearly shows. Make sure your wetsuit fits well, otherwise you could get rashes in all sorts of places. Reasons, well first they are very stable so standing up will be possible within one or two attempts, they are soft so you won't slash open your flesh with the fin, or crack open your skull on the first wipeout, they are cheap and lastly they are very easy to paddle and generate speed on, which is one of the most fundamentally important part to surfing.
The techniques. how to paddle, getting into the lineup, how to get up on your board, how to ride a wave, duck-diving, plus so much more. The longboard is the perfect board to learn to surf on, the length and width of these boards are designed to maximise stability and are easy to paddle on. Although Mavericks was named in 1961 and surfed by only a few brave surfers for many years, today it has become a popular destination for surfers who want to catch a big wave in California.
No one got any better at anything by staying home and sitting on the couch. You must know how to spot a rip before ever attempting to surf.
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