It s all about conquering fear, learning water safety, expanding your ocean and wave knowledge, and returning to the true essence of surfing, fun and relaxation. The two main components of surfing are paddling out and dropping in.
Longboards are more stable than shortboards, and catch waves with less effort on the part of the beginner surfer. Putting in a good amount of time in the kiddies pool will mean that you are more able and experienced to take on the back break when the conditions are right. These things are important not only for your learning and safety, but also so that you don't get seventy-sixed from the good surfing spots by the other surfers for snaking their rides or being a rude surfer.
Paddling will get you out to the good waves, and paddling will help you catch one. This kind of wipeout is very common with new surfers as they have yet to learn to read the waves properly and don't have the technique to rectify the problem, you will go over the falls so get used to it, it is no fun, but it will make you a better surfer the more you do it. Allow at least 45 minutes from the time you last ate before going out.
You must know how to spot a rip before ever attempting to surf. Be sure to get wax for your water temperature, as otherwise the wax can melt off or become slippery.
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