Tuesday, November 18, 2008

surfing the apocalypse

The only surfing instruction available to us was watching other guys in the water, copying what they where doing, and hanging on for grim death if it all came unstuck, which it usually did. It helps if you have friends who surf or an instructor who can lead you in the right direction for your skill level, but if you don't, you can read this easy guide on finding the right board.

Some people swear by longboards for their entire surfing career, claiming that they are faster and simply more fun. Surfing while drunk is not a good idea. Check out how the school operates.

You need to get below the broken water of the wave into the calm water below and keep swimming forward. The second type of a wipeout and without a doubt the most horrific is going over the falls, this is from not having enough paddling speed to catch the wave early enough, getting sucked up the face and pitched over with the lip. The stand up paddle board can be either a midsize board or a longboard, and the difference with this surfboard is that you stand up on it the entire time and move around with a tall paddle rather than lying down on the board and using your arms as oars.

There are so many great places to surf in southern California. Do not go out too far, even if you are a confident swimmer.

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