The popularity of surfing starting growing in the1960's when movies like Gidget and Beach Blanket Bingo, which exposed the rest of the world to a sport only known to locals who were lucky enough to live near the beach. Don't go and paddle out the back until you have mastered the whitewater.
Your first board can really be the breaking point when it comes to whether you will pick up the sport or quit in frustration, many of us see the pros riding on their slick 6ft short boards slamming the lip and making it look like not only a hell of a lot of fun but also a real easy thing to do. Not only that but you can always talk it up with your mates over a few cold ones after. You can find a private surf instructor by simply searching the internet for a surf instructor in the area in which you want to learn how to surf, they will surely be knowledgeable about all regional beaches and together you will choose the surf break best suited for you.
If he can do lip tricks like lip slides and airs then he is a good surfer. When dropping in on a wave while surfing, always remember that where your head goes, your body follows. In surfing contests, dropping in is heavily penalized.
The best way to learn to surf is to go surfing. At the end of the day choosing a board is personal and you need to get advice from an expert.
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