In the early 1900 s the Hawaiians organized the Hui Nalu surf club and competed in neighborly surf competitions with the Outrigger Canoe Club. A less frequented beach with small to medium sized slow moving waves and a sandy bottom and sandy shore line is the perfect place to get started.
Your first board can really be the breaking point when it comes to whether you will pick up the sport or quit in frustration, many of us see the pros riding on their slick 6ft short boards slamming the lip and making it look like not only a hell of a lot of fun but also a real easy thing to do. If you want to learn to surf, skip the trial and error and get a good instructor. And how do you know which board to use.
The next piece of equipment you will need to learn to surf is a surfboard. Its unique shape allows for a looser, faster board for fun on those smaller days. If it is more natural to have your left foot closest to the nose, you are called a natural-footer whereas if your right foot is forward, you are deemed a goofy-footer.
Also, always respect visitors to your beach. You should always learn to read the water before you even start surfing.
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