You just get out past the break and you sit on your board until you see a wave coming and then when you start to see waves coming you just get ready to start paddling and then you try and throw yourself into the wave and try to stand up. It took me years to learn what good surfing instruction from an experienced coach can teach you in hours today.
Have a couple of lessons first, maybe try a few different surfboards of various shapes and sizes, and then think a little more about what board is best for you. Of course, you don't want to spend hundreds on a brand new surfboard and equipment only to find out that you don't really like surfing. Obviously, if you have a longboard it will be much taller than you, but the six inch rule is a standard.
You will be amazed at how much instruction, with text, images, and video, you can find online. Longboards were originally the only type of surfboard available, and an entire generation learned to do some pretty radical things while handling these gigantic boards. Make sure that the surf is safe before you go in.
Always surf with someone else. You don't want to endanger others, so learn the rules and have fun.
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