You just get out past the break and you sit on your board until you see a wave coming and then when you start to see waves coming you just get ready to start paddling and then you try and throw yourself into the wave and try to stand up. The Polynesians began the sacred ritualistic sport here more than 500 years ago.
Deciding what to do is all just a matter of experience. A surf instructor will be able to offer professional surfing advice and guidance along with the added safety of being emergency medical trained. These things are important not only for your learning and safety, but also so that you don't get seventy-sixed from the good surfing spots by the other surfers for snaking their rides or being a rude surfer.
Most surfers will tell you that surfing is more than just a sport; it s an existential experience, the ultimate rush, and it can be addictive. Stretch your neck, put your chin near the deck of your surfboard, and hurl your every thought and inspiration down the face of the wave as you paddle. Only when you are sure you are sliding down the face of the wave should you slide lithely to your feet and start dealing with your bottom turn.
Please, know your limits. Be sure to get wax for your water temperature, as otherwise the wax can melt off or become slippery.
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